Travellers’ tales: Folding bike freedom

I’ve had a Brompton for years but belatedly decided to try it for touring because it works so well with trains. From Bangor in North Wales I followed the west coast of Anglesey round to Holyhead: quiet, flat lanes with Snowdonia in the distance.

I took a relaxing ferry to Dublin, where I admired the architecture, and then Phoenix Park, where I saw deer and a half marathon. Further north it was misty, which felt appropriate for the ancient Hill of Tara and Newgrange, a site older than Stonehenge. Other highlights included a pleasant cycle track by the River Boyne into Drogheda.

Between Dundalk and Newry I was surprised by the lack of any border post, despite all the recent EU-related talks. Signs were simply no longer in kilometres and post boxes became red. The Mourne Coastal Route had views to the Isle of Man and the Lakeland Fells.

A short ferry ride brought me to the Ards Peninsula and Donaghadee, which was the main port for Portpatrick in Scotland until 1826. From Bangor (County Down) I went by train to Larne.

Today ferries don’t go to Portpatrick nor Stranraer, which came after it, but to Cairnryan. A pavement and then a cycle track link the two, with about a mile gap between. It’s worth letting the lorries leave the ferry first!

The next day was one of my best in over 50 years of cycle touring, thanks to the Kirkpatrick C2C. Views all around, quiet lanes and a pause in Wigtown, Scotland’s book town. Finally Dumfries, trains home and the only mechanical issue: a slow puncture, caused by a thorn.

Would I tour on the Brompton again? Sometimes, yes. It was slightly slower, but landscapes and people are as enjoyable as miles covered. I averaged 40 miles per day. A big advantage is the ease of using trains. I also took it into my hotel room most nights, suitably protected in its bag.