Tim's LF Maasroute PART TWO

Tim's Maasroute Cycle Journey 15-31 May 2023

PART TWO (OF TWO)

RETURN TO EUROPOORT

Tuesday 23rd May 2023. Maastricht to Ohé en Laak.

Having enjoyed a couple of days R&R in a superbly equipped apartment it was time to head north, taking a meandering route back to Europoort. No hurry as I’d allowed well over a week and as ferry tickets were flexible, I could please myself – or at least until I’d run out of Euros. Summer briefly turned to Autumn as a cold front gave cloudy skies and drizzly rain. There’d be a promise of fine, warm and sunny conditions as the week progressed. Winds were also due to turn easterly, so a helpful tail wind once more.

In spite of the weather, I noted and took joy in the antics of martins, swifts, swallows and skylarks. Initially, I would take the same route as I had taken a few days before and once again passed through the ancient village of Urmond. Outside the church, there’s an unusual bronze statue of a mouse which looked curious but raised a smile.

Warm sunshine soon returned and having purchased a picnic lunch in Maastricht, I enjoyed sitting on one of the numerous benches provided on the banks of the Maas before finally arriving back to the Mini-Camp in Ohé en Laak. It stated ‘over 55’s only’ so I’d be assured of a peaceful night. Or I so I hoped. The evening meal, once more from my trip to the supermarket, started so well. Perfect tranquil views over the lakes when following a rustling sound, a herd of bullocks charged out from the bushes. I’m not sure who was more surprised but grabbing as much as I could in double quick time, I made a hasty retreat and climbed over a fence for safety.

Wednesday 24th May 2023. Ohé en Laak to Arcen.

Rested after a peaceful night, I would take a slightly different route, crossing the borders into Belgium and Germany, although each time rather briefly. No stamping of passport expected or required. It would be a ‘three nation tour’.

Beesel was more interesting on a second visit as I noted several windmills and a well-maintained pond with signs “De Paddenpoel” (toad pool). Judging by the raucous sounds, toads and frogs were making their presence well and truly known. Indeed, for much of my journey so far, the croaks of toads and frogs were noticeable, both by day and by night.

The first ferry of the return journey would be in Kessel. I was told by a lady also riding a bicycle who engaged me in conversation that Kessel is one of the oldest villages in Limburg. Looking at my loaded steed, she enquired where I was headed and invited me to take coffee and cake in her home. I offered sincere thanks but politely turned down her invitation and continued my journey to Arcen.

This time the campsite was almost empty, although I did notice one other small tent. It turned out that a rather elderly looking gentleman was walking from England to the Czech Republic to attend an international ‘ECO’ summit scheduled for mid-July. He applauded the well-marked routes for ramblers as well as cyclists and had much experience in walking some of the long-distance pilgrimage routes, notably The Camino de Santiago. Exhausted just by the thought, I wished him a safe journey.

Thursday 25th May 2023. Arcen to Linden.

Today would be a relatively short ride as I had wanted to leave plenty of time to cross the border into Germany, pedalling towards Kleve to visit the Reichswald Forest War Cemetery.

Although I had cycled to Arcen from RAF Laarbruch on many occasions some 25 years ago, I discovered that the cycling infrastructure had dramatically improved. New paths, cycle bridges across the floodplains and a Ooijen-Wannsum wildlife reserve with a parking area for cycles only. No cars allowed. A picturesque windmill at Blitterswijk was an added bonus, its reflection perfectly mirrored in the surrounding ponds.

At Gennep, I was once again on the Liberation Trail and the allies push towards the Rhine in WWII. Stopping at the old ferry cottage at Oeffelt (now a restaurant which I dutifully tried and tested) I came across a section of bailey bridge. In February and March 1945 the The Royal Engineers constructed a 1 km long Lambrechsten Bailey bridge between Oeffelt on the Brabant bank and Gennep on the Limberg side of the Maas. An astonishing achievement, this would be the longest Bailey bridge of WWII and was acknowledged by Churchill and Montgomery. As a result, Gennep was soon captured by the allies and became the prologue of the Rhineland Offensive.

My visit to the Reichswald Forest War Cemetery near Kleve, not only has a second world war connection but also a personal connection. Almost exactly 80 years ago to the day, ‘Operation Chastise’ took place; the ‘Dambusters Raid’. Dad’s schoolboy friend (Bill) Warner Ottley, who’s family was also from Herne Bay, was the pilot of Lancaster AJ-C of the third wave taking off from RAF Scampton at 00.09 am on 17th May 1943. The aircraft was shot down by flak over Hamm, hitting the ground 5 miles away at Heessen. All but the rear gunner Sergeant Fred Tees perished. Twenty-seven of the 53 Allied aircrew who died on the Dams Raid on 16/17 May 1943 are buried in the Reichswald Forest War Cemetery.

On an upbeat note, warm sunshine followed my progress to Cuijk and a little further to my next campsite in Linden. Not a Mini-Camp but more of a holiday park and marina equipped with cafes and restaurants. They made my me very welcome and provided a pitch by the marina itself. Perfect views of the sunset and sunrise over the water.

Friday 26th May 2023. Linden to Groena Island.

Another deviation off the LF Maasroute today to visit Nijmegen, a historic city dating to Roman times and located on the Waal River. I fondly remember visiting the national cycle museum and enjoying pannenkoeken from the barges on the waterfront years ago.

Firstly, however a pleasant ride along the Maas to Grave before taking the new Fast Cycle Highway (Snelfietsroute) F73 into Nijmegen. This section, opened in 2020, runs through the wooded area of Heumensoord and is lined by colourful rhododendron bushes. The whole cycle route had a budget of 16 million Euros. The Dutch have a different attitude to cycle infrastructure investment.

After spending a happy hour or so in the ‘Velorama’ cycle museum it was time to ride back to the Massroute and a picnic lunch beside the river at Den Tempel. In this part of the Arhhem-Nijmegen Fietsnetwork, information boards detail the local history and a splendid statue on the dike was a reminder of the last ferryman who plied his trade. ‘Den Temple’ also relates to its connection with the Templars who offered places of rest and protection for pilgrims on their way to Rome. I wondered if the gentleman I had met in Arcen had walked the Via Francigena pilgrim way between Canterbury and Rome.

Castles and fortified towns had been a feature of the whole route so far and so it was no surprise that I’d find myself looking at the ruins of a castle at Batenburg, built strategically on the banks of the Maas during the middle-ages. The town has had a tumultuous history with battles between the German emperor over centuries. Its ownership was finally confiscated by the Dutch as late as 1945. With a slight alteration of spelling, I wondered if there was a connection with our royal family.

Looking for somewhere to camp for the night, I enquired at three sites that had been recommended at Appeltern. ”sorry we are full” I was told by each one. It would appear that the Dutch had decided to take annual holiday for the two weeks of Ascension and Whitsun. A check on the mobile phone and I found one room remaining at the Moeke Mooren Hotel and so booked on the spot. A great choice too with the hotel offering great views and I was provided with a rather fine meal from the restaurant overlooking Groena Island.

Saturday 27th May 2023. Groena Island and Appeltern to Aalst.

Refreshed and scrubbed clean wearing freshly laundered cycling gear, I departed the hotel with some reluctance but on passing attractive windmills and typical thatched houses along the Lithse dijk I was buoyed up and ready to enjoy the ride. I stopped a while to explore an intriguing wildlife reserve complete with observation tower at De Helluw before heading back into the land of the stork. A number of ready-made nests atop of poles to aid their breeding were visible along the route, many of which were occupied.

Passing through a small village of Alem, I couldn’t help but notice that a hostelry was sited adjacent to the local church, quite typical I’m finding in my travels through the Netherlands and Germany. The Maas route would later take me through Kerkdriel where the ‘Kerk’ had no fewer than 3 hostelries located nearby. An interesting place as due to its positioning between the two rivers (Maas and Waal), a strong local linguistic “Driels” accent has developed. Luckily most of the bar and café staff spoke perfect English and so my few words of Dutch sufficed to summon up a tasty meal.

With the sun still shining brightly, the route would wind its way along the Mass, first crossing over using the Princess Irene Brigade Bridge at Hedel (named after the Dutch troops who had originally escaped to Great Britain in WWII, fighting alongside the Royal Marines who gallantly held the bridge suffering a number of losses) then crossing by ferry from North Brabant into Gelderland, each with their own distinctive flags flying proudly. The route to the campsite at Kasteel Nederhemert would now pass through green grassy fields where contented sheep and cattle grazed.

The evening proved warm and balmy, some campers enjoying a swim in the Maas or a paddle in a canoe whilst others busied themselves with campfire cooking. A fiery red sunset looked picture perfect.

Sunday 28th May 2023. Aalst to Dordrecht.

The sun had been shining since dawn and temperatures were due to rise to about 23 Degrees Celsius. Although I’ve noted the Dutch are not usually early risers, today being Whit Sunday (Pinksteren in Dutch), it was to be a little different and after having been woken at 6 am by a cockerel and hens, I would busy myself for a 9 am departure.

The bells from the village church would sound the calling to prayers and I was told that Nederhemert was in the Netherlands ‘Bible Belt’, evidenced by a group of older women dressed in Sunday Best (long ankle length skirts, large hats almost all in black) walking in the middle of the road on a procession to church.

Today was originally a 70 Km route to Dordrecht but the ferry at the campsite was closed and so a diversion was necessary. Not a real problem as there are so many cycle friendly tracks to use, options were endless.

The Dutch use a system of ‘knoopunnt’ points where you navigate by numbers. All are comprehensively marked with detailed information boards at every numbered location. You can’t get lost. You don’t need a map. Remarkable system.

A tail wind would aid my travels through the attractive Maas lands, fields now being mown for hay and giving that distinctive smell so familiar at this time of year. Lots of bird life with sighting of heron and the noise of frogs amongst the marshes.

The route would take me up onto the Maasdijke where once more quintessential dijke thatched houses were set just behind the banks, some dating to the 17th and 18th Century, the Dutch being the grand masters of land reclamation.

Following a well-deserved lunch and a beer, I would now head away from the Maas and enter the Biesbosch National Park. Beaver and deer are common sightings, but sadly not today although the sound of frogs was all pervasive.

With about 75 Km on the dial, I finally arrived at tonight’s campsite at Dordrecht. I was given a spot right alongside a small dike. Sounds of frogs! I wonder if I’ll get a good night’s sleep. Croak, Croak.

Monday 29th May 2023. Dordrecht and Rotterdam.

Sounds of croaking (from the frogs and toads) proved to be sleep inducing and I awoke refreshed and ready for a tour of the historic city of ‘Dordt’ and a visit to Rotterdam.

Departing the campsite at 9 am allowed plenty of time for a morning coffee in the city before boarding the Waterbus for Rotterdam which departed from the Merwekade (the junction of the Oude Maas, Merwede and Wantij). The hour- long journey proved delightful, passing the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Kinderdijke on the way where 19 windmills still operate on the banks of the Overwaard and Nederwaard.

I’ve visited Rotterdam on a number of occasions taking advantage of special P&O mini-cruise deals for a day trip to this intriguing and vibrant city which is still undergoing significant regeneration and rejuvenation. However, I’d never cycled in the city before and was impressed with its development of cycle infrastructure. Everyone cycles here! Rotterdam has seen a staggering 45% increase in the number of cyclists between 2012 and 2022 and in the last two years Rotterdam has created 6,500 new parking spaces for bikes. Provide the means and it’ll be used.

Not staying too long as I’d wanted to take time to explore ‘Dordt’, I returned via the Waterbus in the afternoon. There is much to see and experience in this oldest city in the Netherlands having been given city rights by William I, Count of Holland, in 1220.

Dordrecht is also a place of national importance. In 1572 the ‘First Assembly of the Free States’ meeting was held in the “Hof van Nederland” where the city would revolt against Spanish rule. William of Orange (William The Silent) would be given the money to finance an army to start an uprising and marked the beginning of an independent Dutch Republic.

Although it doesn’t have a network of canals, Dordrecht has a series of quaysides, populated with boats, barges and yachts of all sizes and shape. Most attractive.

Tuesday 30th May 2023. Dordrecht to Europoort.

My final day in the Netherlands would largely be a repeat of my outbound route except for a detour through Zwijndrecht as the foot ferry at Puttershoek wouldn’t be operating until the afternoon. The crossing of the Maas was via a road bridge and initially I was dismayed as I saw several flights of steps ahead of me to get to the main carriageway. Not an easy task with a bike loaded with panniers. However, I discovered that not only were cycle wheeling ramps provided but these each had a moving band that assisted transit. Piece of cake.

The LF Mass route would become increasingly attractive from here, though delightful wooded sections along the banks of the Oude Maas through Rhoose where the cycle paths proved to be wide and composed of perfectly maintained asphalt surfaces.

By afternoon I was approaching Brielle and I had promised myself a longer look than last time with a visit to the museum. I was given a personal tour as the lady at the desk told me that her first job was with North Sea Ferries in Hull and that she knew Hull and Grimsby well. Small world.

Brielle is important to the Dutch as this was the first city that would claim back its independence from Spanish rule following the Eighty Years War. It also has a surprising connection with England. William of Orange (his descendant would later become King of England) needed support in the country’s struggle against Spain and asked for help from England in the form of weapons and money. In 1585 Elizabeth I sent money and troops and in return wanted a number of strategic towns as security for later repayment. Brielle was one of these towns and was in the hands of the English between 1585 and 1616.

History tour complete, an afternoon coffee was enjoyed from the local chocolate shop. Staff members Ella and Fenna were so kind in that although the attached café was closed, they opened up especially for me. Having related tales of my epic journey they also provided me with free chocolates. I’ll have to return.

Having had helpful northerly winds all the way to Masstricht, my luck with the weather continued as winds now blew easterly and aided my final leg back to Europoort. Maybe it was time to return home as after a couple of weeks of summer weather, cloud was for once building and there was a distinct chill in the air. I boarded the ferry at about 6 pm with plenty of time to enjoy the overnight crossing on the Pride of Rotterdam.

Wednesday 31st May 2023. Hull to Louth.

I awoke to grey leaden skies and persistent slight drizzle, north easterly winds blowing briskly across the docks in Hull. Welcome Home! I thought. A group of German cyclists next to me at passport control shivered and enquired “sommer?” I smiled apologetically. Today’s top temperature just 12 Degrees Celsius.

The 75 km route across the Lincolnshire Wolds would at least warm me up and forgoing a lengthy picnic lunch, I arrived back home mid-afternoon.

TOTAL distance cycled a little under 1200 km. Quite an adventure.