Tim's LF Maasroute PART ONE

Tim's Maasroute Cycle Journey 15-31 May 2023

PART ONE (OF TWO)

INTRODUCTION

This would be a cycle holiday that had been in the planning for 3 years due to the interruption of Covid-19. Pre-pandemic, a short break to Leiden included a section of the LF Maasroute which was so enjoyable that it was the impetus for eventually riding the whole route.

With the 80th anniversary of Operation Chastise (16th-17th May 1943), this would also be an opportune time to visit the Reichswald Forest War Cemetery, just across the Dutch border in Germany. Along with 27 of the 53 Allied aircrew who died on the Dams Raid, Pilot Officer ‘Bill’ Warner Ottley DFC is interred here and was Dad’s schoolboy friend. As pilot of AJ-C of the third wave, the Lancaster was shot down by flak over Hamm. I had promised Dad before he passed that I’d visit the Reichswald Cemetery and pay my respects to ‘Bill’.

Armed with the LF Maas Route booklet, maps and GPX files all provided by the Dutch Fietsplatform Foundation (I’d been promised a certificate on completion of the route), I’d planned to use a mix of Mini-Camp sites en-route with a hotel at the mid-way point to Maastricht and in Maastricht itself. At least then I’d be able to wash and freshen up in some luxury. Holiday treats!

LF Maasroute is the longest uniformly signposted route in the Netherlands. In essence, it would simply be a case of following the ‘LF Maasroute’ signs. What could go wrong?

Stretching from the large river delta near Rotterdam where the Maas and Waal historically, flowed into the North Sea, the 480 km Maasroute runs inland to the Dutch/Belgian border at Maastricht. There’s a difference in elevation of about 60 m, a slow rise all the way to Maastricht. The source of the Maas is actually another 739 km in the east of France in the Langres plateau, but that journey might be another adventure. With a return to Rotterdam and Europoort and a few diversions along the way, I had reckoned on riding between 1000 and 1200 km. Starting the journey in mid-May I had been advised would avoid the school holidays and there wouldn’t be a need to pre-book mini-campsites and hotels or B&B’s.

OUTBOUND TO MAASTRICHT

Monday 15th May 2023.

With bike fully loaded (I’d purchased and fitted a front panier rack), the trusty steel framed Merican ‘King of Mercia’ took a while to get used to the difference in handling. Never the less I had left plenty of time to take a breather in Hull before arriving at King George Dock, boarding P&O Ferries ‘Pride of Rotterdam’ around 5 pm. A pleasant night followed maybe having had a little too much to eat and drink.

Tuesday 16th May 2023. Europoort to Dordrecht.

A brisk north westerly breeze was blowing (whitecaps had been visible on entering Europoort), with temperatures due to rise to about 14 Degrees Celsius which was a little on the cool side. However, skies were bright and a tail wind would aid my travels inland with the aim of camping overnight in Dordrecht. A pleasant enough start, watching shipping along the Brielse Maas and Oude Maas.

The floodplains in this region form the largest freshwater tidal area in the Netherlands, thanks to the open connection with the sea. An attractive area for migratory birds and water birds and there were indeed plenty of waders and duck.

At Puttershoek my first crossing of the Mass on a small foot and cycle ferry was followed by one of my few navigation blunders of the holiday. At roadworks on the outskirts of Dordrecht, I missed a cycle route diversion sign and ended up in the ‘Drive Thru’ lane of MacDonald’s and was asked for my preference and order. Extricating myself, I arrived a little later at a small, charming Mini-Campsite with views of the Wantij River in Dordrecht. Luckily not a biting insect in sight!

Wednesday 17th May 2023. Dordrecht to Nederhamert.

Another ferry across the river took me into the Biesbosch National Park, a stunning wildlife area. Historical floods in 1421 swept away 16 villages and not all of the area was reclaimed but left to nature. It’s now one of the few freshwater tidal areas in the world. Sightings of sand martin, swallow and sounds of woodpecker and cuckoo (my first of the year). I also discovered a mighty fine café that served delicious apple cake and café ‘verkeerd’.

Further on and passing typical thatched dijke houses and countless windmills, the river would take me past a series of fortified towns and castles. Loevestein Castle, along with Woudrichem and Gorinchem protected The Republic of the Netherlands from attacks from the south forming part of the Old Dutch Waterline.

A visit of Loevestein Castle was fascinating. Founded by Dirc Loef van Horne in 1358, it also held a number of RAF and allied aircrew prisoners in WWII. By the marker of a crashed Short Sterling that had taken off from Oakington and whose surviving crew were detained at the castle, I met a Dutchman who said that his father also flew Short Sterling’s in WWII, based in Norfolk. He survived and later flew as a captain with KLM.

My campsite tonight would be next to Nederhemert Castle. Yet another charming, rural Mini-Campsite overlooking the Maas. My luck was in as just a short walk away I discovered a café in the woods where I enjoyed a meal and a beer … or two. A stunning sunset over the river before tucking myself into the sleeping bag.

Thursday 18th May 2023. Ascension Day (Hemelvaartsdag). Nederhamert to Cuijk.

Most of the Maasroute had so far been on fine surfaces, largely bespoke cycle paths away from the main roads. Now a section of ‘off road‘ that took me cross country to Hedel. With the national holiday I discovered that the ferry wasn’t operating so I took an alternative route through the north side of ‘s-Hertogenbosh. Fortuitously, sightings of stork and attractive meadows made for a very pleasant journey. With the holiday, large groups of cyclists were noticeable too, many over a certain age taking advantage of e-bike technology.

Continuing along the Maas a number of kilometres were pedalled along the dikes, the very first having being built in 1000 AD. At Megen, another ferry took me to Gelderland and here the delta is particularly suitable for fruit growing. Orchards lined both sides of the route.

At Grave (another characterful fortified town), I entered ‘Operation Market Garden’ territory, coming across a tribute to Lieutenant John Thompson, after which the bridge over the Maas is named. The 504th Parachute Infantry Regiment of the American 82nd Airborne Division was ordered to capture the bridge undamaged but most of the company jumped from their C-47 Skytrains too early and landed far away in Velp. Only a small group of 16 men led by Lieutenant John Thompson landed near the bridge and with the element of surprise, captured the bridge without a single loss.

The day had been a long one and after 60 miles I finally arrived in Cuijk (formally a Roman settlement) and to the hotel for the night. Well appointed, it boasted its own vineyard and the resultant wine tasted very fine too.

Friday 19th May 2023. Cuijk to Arcen.

Winds had turned northerly by now and continued to help my southbound progress. The days were also warming up and I had been able to shed a layer or two and enjoyed a coffee and croissant in Gennep sitting outside the rather fine old Town Hall. Cycling in this part Limburg and North Brabant was a delight with a mosaic of small floodplain meadows, swaying grasses which were full of yellow flowers. Hawthorn hedges enclosed many of the fields and there were plenty of benches to sit a while and relax in the warm sunshine. The area is known as Maasheggen and is the oldest cultural landscape in the Netherlands.

Approaching Well and the Maasduinen National Park should have been familiar as I’d worked at nearby RAF Laarbruch (now Weeze or Niederrhein Airport) for several years. However much had changed and familiar shops and ice cream parlours has been replaced. Never the less this area with the Maas as a tributary of the Rhine has formed a series of river dunes over the centuries and is a fascinating landscape of heathland, dunes, forest and ponds which are a pleasure to cycle through on a network of traffic free paths.

Emerging from the forest trails, I arrived in Arcen. Time to settle into my Mini Campsite for tonight located on the ‘Fossa Eugeniana’, a canal dating to the Spanish-Dutch Eighty Years' War in the 17th Century. The owner had indicated that the site was full but managed to squeeze me in behind a camper van. Enjoyable evening walks in the forest trails and a visit to the town centre for a meal. I somehow missed the ice cream parlour I used to visit but the local brewery, Hertog Jan, provided fine fayre and a selection of beers.

Saturday 20th May 2023. Arcen to Ohé en Laak.

Departing early, the cafes on the banks of the Mass in Venlo were still closed (a visit to the town centre was a must for the return leg) so onwards to Baarlo and Kessel which had come highly recommended. Both have impressive castles with the thousand-year-old ruins of Castle De Keverberg in Kessel now completely renovated with the addition of a contemporary structure made almost entirely of glass. It’s one of the last remaining ‘motte’ castles in the Netherlands. At least the adjacent hotel provided a fine "Limburgse vlaai" which went down well with a glass of Hertog Jan.

Continuing through Beesel, the cycle path once more reverted from tarmac to a dirt track but having been dry throughout the journey was straightforward enough. The bike - and rider - were standing up to the tests well.

Passing windmills dating to the early 1600’s the route took me into Roermond, the capital of Limburg. The guide suggests the rider ‘erases the memory of the ugly industrial port’, but actually, I enjoyed the cycle ride through the city and took time to test out a glass of locally brewed beer. Such a choice as always. One of Roermond’s best known residents was architect and master builder Pierre Cuypers who designed the Rijksmuseum and Central Station in Amsterdam.

Finally, before arriving at the Mini-Camp in Ohé en Laak, I passed through another fortified town of Stevensweert. The Spanish built a fortress here in 1633 during the Eighty Years War and the streets still echo the original plans. Together with Stevensweert, Ohé and Laak, forms the 'Island in the Meuse', and the campsite had pleasant views of lakes and waterways. An ice cream parlour in the village centre, a few minutes’ walk away, was an added bonus.

Sunday 21st May 2023. Ohé en Laak to Maastricht.

The sun had been shining since dawn and temperatures were due to rise to about 23 Degrees Celsius, the warmest day so far. A 60 km journey would take me to the Belgian border, just south of Maastricht and my half way point. Information and interpretation boards were available almost every kilometre for anyone interested in learning more about the area’s rich history.

With many Dutch still on holiday there were cyclists everywhere. Solo riders, families (some in the familiar cargo bike carriers) and club cyclists. At Berg aan de Maas, a chance for refreshment at a cafe by the ferry that would take you across the few metres into Belgium. A rather fine apricot ‘’vlaai’ and coffee. The toilet facilities were spotless, as is typical in the Netherlands. Fresh cut flowers, pot plants and the sound of birdsong from speakers hidden in alcoves.

Refreshed, southbound through Urmond and Meers, past former battlefields (the Dutch waging war with the Spanish), castles, and then into the wide-open floodplains of the Maas. In this Limburg landscape, following disastrous flooding (the worst occurring in 1993), the Grensmaas Project is being developed where the land is deliberately being allowed to flood. Counterintuitive perhaps but allowing this ‘de-reclamation’ is deemed essential with flooding expected to become increasingly severe and so allowing the river to overflow as it used to for centuries. The project is due to be completed in 2025.

The final few kilometres to the Belgian border were uphill. Yes. 13 percent climbs to Fort Sint Pieter affording stunning views over the vineyards to the River Maas below.

The ride had been marked by sights and sounds of nature. Frogs, geese, cuckoo and woodpecker all playing their part.

Finally, arriving into historic Maastricht in time to settle into an apartment for a couple of days. I had arrived just as the Maastricht Marathon was finishing and almost, mistakenly, went under the finishing post. I was wondering why so many were (apparently) applauding my arrival.

PART 2 of 2 TO FOLLOW

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