Cycle Touring in the Netherlands

Cycle Touring in the Netherlands – a personal observation. Tim Newbery.

A cycle tour that had been in the planning for a few years, indeed ferry tickets were purchased two and a half years ago but delayed due to Coronavirus 2019!

Monday 5th September 2022

Finally, the day of departure, leaving home on a heavily laden ‘King of Mercia’ (twice repacked to limit the weight). A leisurely day’s ride was planned for the route across the Lincolnshire Wolds to King George Docks in Hull, in readiness for the evening P&O sailing to Europoort.

The aim back in 2019 was to spend a week in Leiden, the Netherlands second largest city and historically important since the middle-ages with more recently connections with Lincolnshire as this was the city the ‘Pilgrim Fathers’ were to spend over a decade before heading across the Atlantic to the New World. The plan now was for a few days camping on the outskirts of the city at Vlietland, a rather fine waterfront site.

A brisk southerly wind with sunny skies and very warm conditions was a gift from heaven and allowed a very enjoyable excursion with plenty of time for refreshment stops (maybe I spent too long in the numerous rather fine establishments in Hull Marina). From here a guided route from The Deep to the docks following the ‘Victoria Dock Heritage Trail’. Boarding at 4.30 pm was very straightforward with few formalities and a fine evening was had relaxing on the overnight sailing.

Tuesday 6th September 2022

Originally the intention was to travel along the North Sea long distance cycle route via the Rosenberg ferry (cyclists and pedestrians only). However, access was afforded via the Calandbrug and this bridge had recently been rammed and damaged by a Ro-ro ferry. Cycling UK and Bike Map cycle route tools advised an alternative 50 mile route via Massvlakte Rotterdam Port or a shorter 40 mile route along the new LF ‘Maasroute’. I chose the latter as I had cycled some of the North Sea route before.

Disembarking from the ferry it was a pleasant surprise to be immediately greeted by a well surfaced and dedicated dual direction cycle path. Indeed, as I was to discover, the cycle network across much of the Netherlands is perhaps more extensive than the road network such is the multitude of options and connections. The Maasroute would take me eastbound towards Rotterdam and eventually to the Benelux Tunnel. There are limited crossings of the Nieuwe Maas, never the less the tunnel had both lifts and escalators for cycles and along its well-lit route there were verses of a poem ‘Lieve Ari’ (Darling Ari) inscribed for the rider to enjoy. Who would have thought of providing entertainment in a tunnel. Only the Dutch perhaps.

Northbound now through Schiedam and the Prinses Beatrix Park. Beautiful in the blue sunny skies. Following the ‘Poldervaart Fietsroute’ was a joy, passing nature parks (sightings of kingfisher, heron, buzzard and stork!), windmills and waterways. Most unexpected.

Heading through Midden Delftland, cycleways became increasingly rural and numerous seats and picnic benches were provided to allow walkers, cyclists an inline-skaters a rest. All came with a rubbish bin and many with drinking water points. Some even had solar powered e-bike recharging stations (tariff free) and for those on the move, butterfly net shaped rubbish bins (Blikvanger) were provided by the roadside. The Dutch have developed a good aim!

Arrived finally at the campsite with 30 minutes to spare before the office closed. Again, maybe I shouldn’t have spent so long over a beer in the café in Leidschendam but a rest overlooking the Vliet (a canal dug in 47 AD that runs from Leiden to Delft) was too tempting to turn down.

Perhaps unsurprisingly the campsite was superbly managed with spotless facilities. A bonus for me was an onsite café that sold rather fine coffee and Dutch apple cake.

Wednesday 7th September 2022

After a night of torrential downpours and violent thunderstorms (the tent survived), I emerged from the tent to a beautiful sunny day. My luck would hold for a ride into Leiden and a tour of the lakes and a return along the ‘Cheese and Ice Cream’ cycle route. What could be better. A picnic lunch was bought from the local bakeries and having seen so many picnic tables provided so far, knew that there would be numerous options of a rest en-route.

Based on my limited experience so far, many Dutch do indeed cycle. All ages, all types of bike. Few ride in lycra (just comfortable clothing) with few wearing a helmet. My observation (cannot be quantified or qualified) is that there are more women cycling in the Netherlands than men. There were youngsters cycling to school, or clearly enjoying some down time riding along the cycle routes and lanes. Perhaps just going to visit their mates without the need to own a car. There were those commuting or shopping, with cargo bikes commonly seen either full of shopping or with young children smiling and waving. The extensive ‘safe to use’ and largely segregated cycling infrastructure must play a big part.

Back to camp after a fine day out with time for a paddle by the beach that had been provided at the lakeside. Awoke in the middle of the night yet again to thunder and lightning, heavy rain and squally winds. A check of the tent. All dry. A check on the location of waterproofs and torch with an escape route to the toilet block if all things went pear shaped!

Thursday 8th September 2022

With all fingers and toes having been crossed, I scrambled from the tent as sunshine once again appeared and was ready to enjoy the return route to Europoort, this time though the centre of Delft.

Delft is a typical example of the huge investment given to cycling provision. Delft was the third city in The Netherlands to experiment with modern cycling infrastructure and an ambitious plan was developed by 1979 (a reversal of car centric plans in the 1960’s). The experiment seems to have worked. I noted cyclists emerging from the ultra-modern Delft Railway Station to a dedicated and well signed lane, typical of much of the city. The station itself has secure underground parking for over 10,000 cycles! The population of Delft is about 102,000.

The Dutch still seem to enjoy books in printed form as the many book shops seemed to testify. I was amused to see a rather saucy poster in one, advertising the ‘Dutch Biking Survival Guide’. “Put the fun between your legs”. The book notes that the Dutch are very straightforward in their approach and swear a lot (although I didn’t notice this). The book tells the unsuspecting tourist how to give as good as you get. Only once in the Netherlands did I receive a firm (but polite) rebuttal as I had inadvertently dismounted in the wrong location to cross the road. I was still in an active cycle lane. I offered apologies.

There are certainly some busy roads to cross over in built up areas but nearly always these are controlled by traffic signals (dedicated for cycles). Indeed, the push buttons are usually located on easy to reach posts which you can hang onto without the need to dismount. Roundabouts too are easy to navigate as the cycle lane has full priority across all junctions. You have to think ‘Dutch’ and go for it. There are also a number of roads where the car is seen as a guest (fietsstraat – auto te gast).

Leaving the city behind and once again traversing through the pleasant polders of the Middle Delft I came across a ‘bike route closed’ and diversion sign. A rare occurrence. A housing estate was being developed (not restricted to the UK it seems). Thinking I would need to consult my map, there was no need as numerous cycle route diversion signs were strategically placed at every turn until back on track.

Having been advised that I could board the P&O ferry from 5 pm the Maas Route offered fine scenery and places to stop for a drink. Heenvliet a notable example where I was offered encouragement - and a beer - from the owner of De Hoecksac, the local hostelry. Boarded 5 minutes past 5, again a very straightforward process, just as a thunderstorm broke out. I had been so fortunate with the weather.

One note of sadness is that just as I was about to start my evening meal, the ship’s captain announced the passing of Queen Elizabeth II. Quite a shock. People always seem to remember where they heard momentous news, such as the assassination of President Kennedy or 9-11. I’ll certainly remember this.

All in all, a fascinating short break in the Netherlands.