Travellers’ tales: A pilgrim’s progress in Spain

As I struggled up yet another long, steep climb – my muscles burning, my hips and knees aching and my lungs gasping for breath – I was wondering what I had let myself in for.  

Eventually I found myself at the top and entered a small town, but there were still a few more hills before we dropped back down to the coast.

This was only the first day of an eight-day led ride along the north route of the Camino de Santiago. I was already suffering.

What had possessed me, a 70-year-old cyclist of average ability at best, to take on this challenge? I had done a C2C and a leisurely LEJOG, and I was open to new challenges.

I looked up the tour on the website and, after making a few enquiries, decided it was achievable. I signed up and paid my money. A bike would be provided so I wouldn’t have to worry about transferring my own to Spain.

At the start there were four of us, including the two leaders/organisers. As we progressed it soon became apparent that the organisation and planning left a lot to be desired. The beginning and end point of each day were known but the route seemed to be made up on the fly.

There were no easy days apart from day four, which was a rest day. I rested.

On the last day we rolled into the cathedral square to finish our pilgrimage. Like an audax, you need to provide proof of passage via a passport you collect at the start and which you get stamped along the way at various cafés, bars, hotels, churches and tourist offices. We took our passports to the pilgrimage office and received our certificates.

The bike was returned to the hire company. I caught the bus to the airport and went home. I’m glad I managed to do it. I only wish it had been a properly organised tour.