Travellers’ tales: Stelvio unplanned

During a recent holiday in South Tirol, the organiser suggested a trip up the Stelvio Pass due to the good weather forecast. After a brief check on Google, I asked if I could be dropped off at Baldi Sport bike hire in Prato, then meet the others at the top. He was happy to accommodate the crazy Englishman’s suggestion. 

Suitably equipped with a high-end road bike and a helmet, I set off to tackle the 25km ride, without thinking too hard about the 2,400m ascent. The many hairpins in the last 10km are the headline of the Stelvio, but the road climbs steadily right from the start. 

Riding in jeans

I was trying to pace myself, while avoiding using up all the gears too soon. One elderly German cyclist asked what was with the jeans and T-shirt as I rode past; I explained this was a completely unplanned excursion. I stopped for a quick snack and photo opportunity, just as the ladder of hairpins came into view. 

Refreshed from my pit stop, I found a reassuring rhythm to the hairpins, which gave a few moments of relief each time I was going around the outside, and a few moments of extra effort when taking the inside. The last few seemed to get easier as the summit came into sight. 

Finishing the ascent

I managed the ascent in three hours, then refuelled on bratwurst and sauerkraut from a roadside stall, having spotted my wife and our friends. After lunch, I bought a couple of souvenirs and then donned my jumper for the descent. High in the Alps in October it’s not that warm. 

I set off just as the others were returning to the car. The descent was very fast, despite my natural caution, and 40 minutes later I returned the hire bike. I’d arrived at the town before the support vehicle!