Travellers’ tales: Cycling 100k on the Canal du Midi

A man is riding along a gravel track through countryside. He's riding a touring bike with a handlebar bag on the front. He's wearing blue and black cycling short-sleeved jersey and shorts, a cycle helmet and glasses
Geoff riding on the canal towpath at the 50km mark
To celebrate his 80th year, Cycling UK member Geoffrey Hunt rode his first metric century alongside the French canal

We were staying in Cailhau in southern France, close to the Canal du Midi. It seemed an ideal starting point for a cycle challenge to mark my 80th year. Having had a heart bypass 13 years ago, I was thankful for the support of my cardiologist, my partner Hazel and some good friends.

I set off at dawn on 23 July to avoid the later heat. I’d packed plenty of food and water, as well as a copy of the Canal des Deux Mers guidebook. Riding my trusted Ridgeback tourer, I felt well prepared to have an enjoyable if difficult ride.

From Cailhau I rode to Bram, accompanied by the rising sun. It revealed the typical French countryside of sunflowers and grapevines. From Bram, I took the towpath towards Carcassonne, 40km from where I started.

I exchanged friendly words with boat people, walkers and other cyclists. The canal and Carcassonne are both World Heritage sites, Carcassonne being the second-most-visited city in the south of France.

A closed canal lock with the water filling up. There are two people in the background and boats in a marina
Geoff at the canal lock at Carcassonne

Reaching Trebes at the 50km point, a cycling friend appeared on the towpath and gave me an encouraging pat on the back. A tough 25km followed to Le Redort, with some walking due to bridges, cobbles and 15 locks to negotiate.

Then it was a final push to La Somail at 95km, followed by my finishing point, Sallèles-d’Aude. Hazel was waiting there to take a photo and give me lots of congratulations. We then headed to the nearest café.

My favourite parts of the ride were pedalling through Carcassonne, reaching Trebes at halfway, toughing it out in the 35°C heat, and covering 108km in six hours and 52 minutes. It was a memorable experience and, at 80 years old, my first 100km ride in a day.

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