Travellers’ tales: Cycling upriver to the Alps

As a solo cyclist in the 1990s, I had been a keen long-distance, lightweight tourist, taking trips around Europe and further afield. After getting married, my wife and I purchased a tandem. It was during our many trips to the Netherlands over the last 25 years that I developed a desire to cycle up the River Rhine.

At around 855 miles it’s beyond what would be enjoyable for one of us, however. So when it was suggested that I go on my own, I took that as an open invitation to start planning, first purchasing The Rhine Cycle Route by Mike Wells.

Following EuroVelo 15, the route starts in the Swiss Alps and then follows quiet roads and cycle paths, weaving through six countries and two UNESCO World Heritage sites down to the sea at the Hook of Holland. I decided to do it in reverse for an ‘uphill’ route with a mountain top finish.

Windmills in the Netherlands gave way to fertile floodplains interspersed with huge petrochemical sites in Germany, before the river cut through rolling hills with castles, churches and riverside villages in Switzerland. There were brief excursions into France, Austria and Lichtenstein.

The quality of the cycle paths was very good, ranging from smooth tarmac to block paving, cobbles and some gravel surfaces, all navigated successfully on a Cannondale CAAD5 road bike fitted with Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres.

Travelling light, I used a combination of fame bags, a small rucksack and a handlebar ‘wrap’ made from surplus pond liner (which should be, and was, waterproof).

After 900 miles in 10 days, I arrived at the summit of the Oberalp Pass at 2,046m. I savoured the moment before descending to Zurich for a flight home; a free bike box was provided by Swiss Air.

You can read a full account of the ride at Andy’s Cycling Tours.